Community Spotlight: Bearded Oyster Co.
A Puget Sound oyster caterer's favorite variety, his go-to shucking knife, and why oysters are good for our water.
Oysters are one of the local food staples of the Puget Sound area. Whether you like them or not, it is undeniable that oysters play a unique role in human history, serving as an easily harvested, plentiful source of protein and nutrients. Many Pacific oyster varieties are farmed up and down the Hood Canal and in various inlets in the Sound. The industry here has had its ups and downs, and the only native variety, the Olympia oyster, almost went extinct due to over-harvesting and pollution. Thanks to environmental and conservation efforts, the Olympia is making a comeback, and the environmental health in the Sound has improved greatly.
Aliza and Chris were among my first sharpening customers. If my memory serves me, their main kitchen knife was the first good Japanese kitchen knife I sharpened officially at Uptown Cutlery.
They run a business called Bearded Oyster Co.,catering public and private events around Jefferson County and Western Washington, cementing themselves as an integral part of the local food scene. I thought it would be fun to feature them in this newsletter, so I asked Chris a few questions about oysters, shucking knife opinions, and the industry.
What is your history in the oyster industry?
I kind of fell into the oyster industry, through a fascination with regenerative agriculture. Living in Oakland, I was working in farm-to-table restaurants, mostly in the front of the house, and completed a sustainable urban agriculture certification, and was actively looking for open lots in the city to grow food. A friend who was working for Hog Island Oyster Co. got me a job as a server, and asked, "Have you ever looked at oysters?" I was instantly hooked. It's like the ultimate animal. It's a completely sustainable protein, and farming them improves the water quality and ecosystem around them. Coming up on a decade of messing with bivalves, and haven't lost interest yet.
How long have you been running Bearded Oyster Co. and what are your main missions and goals with the business?
My wife, Aliza, and I started it in 2022, with the goal of bringing fresh local oysters to people. When we moved to this area, we were surprised that it was really hard to find anywhere serving raw local shellfish on the half-shell. It gave me the thrill of being in the restaurant scene again—providing hospitality and sharing this incredible local food. I was already working at an oyster farm here, so there was an opportunity to bring freshly harvested oysters to events, and I've really enjoyed sharing the beauty of our backyard directly to the people.
The other main goal of B.O.C. is to highlight all the amazing, creative, and hard working people who live in this area, so we try to source everything from the Olympic Peninsula. We get all our fixings from friends down the road (shout-out Space Twins Provisions, Stellar J Farm, Chimalow Produce, and Creaky Knees Farm), our outfits and tablecloths are stamped with oyster love by Lydia Vadopalas of Snout Studios, and even the wood slabs for our mignonette station were cut from downed trees near the Hama Hama Oyster Farm.
What do you think the future of the oyster industry looks like, considering environmental impact?
There are lots of really great people and small companies in the industry with a deep passion for what they do, and they know that shellfish will be an important food in the future. We've had a long history of overfishing our oceans, mismanaging waterways, and seeing massive die-offs in fish populations. The cool thing about oysters is that they are a keystone species; they eat plankton and algae, help the eelgrass, and contribute to healthier oceans and waterways. By growing more oysters, we will help the ocean, which has the potential to feed so many people. Fun fact, one adult oyster can filter up to 50 gallons of water each day!
Photo Credit: Kendall Rock
What is your favorite oyster variety?
Oh man, like I am supposed to choose just one? My thing about oysters is that it's just like wine, but not terroir..... 'merroir' The oyster experiences that I truly enjoy and remember are in the space that they are from and the people who grew them. If I HAD to choose, I'd say I have a soft spot for 'Bluff oysters,' which only grow south of the South Island of New Zealand in the Foveaux Strait. I stayed on Stewart Island for a few weeks, went out on opening day, and pulled up these oysters that take five-plus years to grow. They are huge, maybe kind of similar to European Flats, but hard to describe. Firm, delicious, briny, metallic—the best of all the worlds.
What's your ultimate oyster condiment?
I'm a purist at heart—all natural for the first one, this is the best way to actually taste what's happening in that particular waterway. Then, a little bit of lemon. After that probably a herby shallot and rice vinegar. Cilantro, parsley and dill is a cool combination.
What's your favorite shucking knife?
The French one from you! (K Sabatier oyster shucker) I also use the R. Murphy Duxbury, which is better for a more sturdy oyster, and was designed I'm pretty sure, for Pacific oysters. The Sabatier is a lot thinner. I like to keep them sharp, the whole goal is to keep as much of the meat on the oyster, so the sharper they are the better.
How should people contact you to cater an event?
Check out our website beardedoysterco.com—we can do any type of event and will travel too! (You buy the flight, we'll bring the bivalves)!
Chris's Picks: Oyster Essentials
Shop Oyster Knives & Shuckers →
If you have any questions about oysters, shucking or anything else, don't hesitate to reach out!
- Sam
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